Viognier

The History of the Viognier Grape Variety

Viognier is an ancient varietal. The Northern Rhone is its spiritual home, where it has been cultivated for centuries; it is mentioned in documents dating 1781. Still, the French varietal is not native to the Rhône Valley; it was most probably brought to the region by the Ancient Romans from Italy around 280 AD, the same Romans who carved many of the current terraced vineyards overlooking the Rhône River. 

Although Viognier enjoyed popularity in the past, the grape became nearly extinct by the mid-20th century, when just over eight hectares of the white varietal existed. The grape is difficult to grow and prone to American fungal diseases, including downy and powdery mildew.

The late 20th century was gentler with Viognier, as Rhône winemakers found renewed interest in the grape. New plantings in Southern France, in Languedoc-Roussillon, also helped change Viognier’s future. Meanwhile, producers in the USA, Australia, and to some extent Italy, South Africa and South America found in the heat-resistant, aromatic white grape an opportunity to diversify their portfolios. 

Today, Viognier is recognised as a noble varietal for its unique full body and fragrant bouquet. The future is bright for Viognier, as plots dedicated to the French varietal multiply worldwide. 

The latest efforts in DNA profiling by the University of Davis in California showed Viognier is closely related to the Italian red grape Nebbiolo and another red Piedmontese speciality, Freisa.

Wine Regions

Today, there are over 16,000 hectares of Viognier globally, and they’re increasing incredibly fast. In 2000, only 3,000 hectares of the aromatic varietal existed. Most of the vineyards dedicated to Viognier are found in Southern France, where the weather is warm and dry. Although most Viognier grapes become table wine of medium quality or blended with other white grapes, like Chardonnay, dedicated producers in Southern France produce fine wine with Viognier.

Of course, the most acclaimed wines made with Viognier come from the Northern Rhône. Condrieu is a small AOC dedicated to the varietal, and so is the single-estate appellation of Château-Grillet. Still, Viognier also grows in neighbouring Côte Rôtie, where it’s blended with Syrah. Viognier is also one of the allowed varieties in Côtes du Rhone, although Marsanne and Roussanne are much more prevalent in the Southern Rhône.
 
New World wine-producing countries have also found a place for Viognier in their vineyards. California, led by Mount Harlan and Calera, have the most significant Viognier plantings after France, followed by Australia. The Eden Valley in South Australia is gaining recognition for its Viognier in recent years.

Viognier is now a leading varietal, working its way up the ranks in Italy, South Africa, Chile, Argentina and Spain. Even emerging wine regions are experimenting with Viognier, including warm areas in Mexico and Japan. 

There’s no doubt Viognier lovers have more alternatives than ever to enjoy the wines made with the floral varietal, and the quality has never been better. Viognier is experiencing an authentic renaissance. 

Wine Styles & Tasting Notes

Viognier is a white varietal that thrives in dry, warm climates. It produces medium- to full-bodied white wines, often attractively golden, offering floral notes along with hints of bergamot and apricots. 

The wine’s palate is rich and thick, thanks to high levels of glycerin and alcohol — Viognier achieves high sugar levels as it ripens. And despite the grape’s high sugar and sweet nose, most wines made with Viognier are vinified to dryness. Sweet wines made with Viognier exist, although less common than dry table wines. Producers might identify the sweet style with terms like “late harvest.”

One of the most historic uses of Viognier is blending it with red grapes, as it’s been done in Northern Rhône for centuries. The white fruit adds aromatic complexity and depth to red wines made with Syrah, mainly in the Côte Rôtie appellation. 

To produce this uncommon red wine style, producers co-ferment the white and red grapes in the same vat. Viognier often makes 5% of the blend, although some French appellations allow up to 20% white varieties in red wine production. This unique red wine style is now imitated worldwide as well, and it has produced exceptional results in the Canberra District, Australia, Walla Walla, Washington and Paso Robles, California. 

A third prominent wine style involving Viognier is the rare white blend. Viognier can give floral aromatics and body to white wines made with Chardonnay, or its local stable-mates, Marsanne and Roussanne. Viognier never dominates these blends, but it makes a big difference texturally and aromatically. 

Food Pairings

Viognier has excellent compatibility with food. Full-bodied white wines that can tackle more robust recipes are rare, and Viognier is one of the world’s boldest and most textural white wines. This makes Viognier suitable for pairings with white meat, poultry and pork, especially if roasted and served with creamy white sauce.

Viognier’s floral bouquet has also made it a popular pairing with seasoned and aromatic food, like Thai and Indian curries. Malay satay skewers, kebabs and colourful stir-fries also benefit from the Viognier’s sweet nose but dry palate. Sweet and savoury sauces, including Barbecue and Teriyaki, can also shine along with the sweet-scented wine, and dishes flavoured with saffron are also compatible with Viognier’s warm nose.

Sweet wines made with Viognier can complement custards and creamy desserts wonderfully, especially if flavoured with white pitted fruit. Pastry cream, meringue, viennoiserie and fruit tarts taste wonderful with a glass of floral Viognier in hand.

Viognier might be gaining well-worth notoriety, but many wine lovers are still to be charmed by the French wine grape.